Mexico - Winter 23/24 : 2023-12-28 : Travel Merida to San Miguel de Allende

Tip
Type Name Description Service Provider Cost Notes Actions
General Info UNESCO Site San Miguel de Allende's colonial centro is a UNESCO Site $0.00 Due to the architectural and historical significance of the carefully preserved central neighborhood, the town itself is a UNESCO site, as is the nearby Jesuit sanctuary of Jesús Nazareno de Atotonilco, an unparalleled example of Mexican baroque architecture and interior décor. UNESCO added San Miguel de Allende and Atotonilco to the list in 2008, noting that both sites were significant in the country's movement for Independence from Spain, and that the art and architecture of Atotonilco displays the melding of Spanish, Creole, and Amerindian traditions.
General Info Tuesday Tianguis Off the Beaten Path: giant flea market $0.00 For a real taste of Mexico, head to the outskirts of town for the Tuesday tianguis, a giant flea market where you can buy everything from regional spices to used clothing to fleece blankets emblazoned with the Virgin of Guadalupe. Be sure to check out the food stalls, which serve mouth-watering traditional fare.
General Info La ParoquÍa de San Miguel Arcángel Most Iconic Place: La ParoquÍa de San Miguel Arcángel $0.00 With its pink spires and turrets, La ParoquÍa de San Miguel Arcángel looks straight out of a fairytale. In fact, the façade is the work of Zeferino Gutiérrez, a 19th-century stonemason who supposedly learned his trade by studying postcards of French cathedrals. Today the towering neo-gothic church is the centerpiece of town celebrations and souvenirs are ubiquitous.
General Info Museo Casa de Allende Historic Site: Museo Casa de Allende $0.00 Soak up local and national history at the Museo Casa de Allende, the childhood home of town namesake Ignacio Allende, hero of Mexico's War of Independence. Built in 1760, the stately mansion is set up to show visitors a vision of upper crust life in 19th-century San Miguel, while simultaneously recapping key historical events.
General Info Food to eat
  • Tacos al pastor
  • Elote
$0.00
  • Tacos al pastor, which is marinated pork, spit-roasted, then served on a corn tortilla with chopped onion and cilantro and spicy salsa
  • Elote, which is corn on the cob, grilled, slathered with mayonnaise, then sprinkled with chili powder and cotija cheese.
General Info Fábrica La Aurora Visit Fábrica La Aurora $0.00 There are no shortage of art galleries, museums, and other visual art spaces around San Miguel. But a must-visit is Fábrica La Aurora, a former textile factory turned exhibition space. It’s filled with dozens of small artist galleries, artisan shops, cafes and restaurants, antique decor and modern furniture stores, jewelry boutiques, and more. It’s a mix of local and expat artists, with a good selection of fine art. Whether you’re decorating your new home in town or looking for a souvenir, you’ll no doubt find something that calls to you at Fábrica. Before you head out be sure to nab an outdoor table under a shade tree and a cappuccino at Geek & Coffee.

While you’re in the colonia (neighborhood), called Guadalupe, be sure to stroll through a couple of blocks to see the parade of murals put up on the walls of homes and business by talented local artists. You’ll find this “street art” all over the area.
General Info La Gruta Go to the Hot Springs: La Gruta $0.00 Outside of San Miguel are several low-key natural hot springs resorts that cater to day-trippers eager for a hot soak. One of the most popular is La Gruta (The Grotto), so named for a mad-made stone cave that concentrates the heated water into a large sauna; don’t stay more than 10 minutes at a time. The grounds are lush and green, with gardens, lawns, and plenty of poolside loungers and tables and chairs with umbrellas. The cocktails and food are delicious and cheap. Admission is $10.
General Info La Azotea on Calle Umarán Visit a Rooftop Bar: La Azotea on Calle Umarán $0.00 One of the favorite things to do for visitors to San Miguel is patronizing a rooftop bar-restaurant in centro. They are numerous and range from low-key to fancy. You’ll enjoy cool breezes, views over centro, including La Parroquia church, and, if you’re lucky, a panoramic view of the umber and auburn tinged sunset over a distant mountain range…along with craft cocktails and gourmet appetizers.

Two of the best rooftop locations including the Luna Bar at the ultra-luxury Rosewood Hotel. Drinks, created by professional mixologists, run about $10, with craft beer at about $6. Food is also a little pricey. Same with Quince, which is just a block off the Jardin. For a slightly more economical option, check out La Azotea on Calle Umarán.
General Info Mama Mia Campestre Dine Outdoors in the Countryside: Mama Mia Campestre $0.00 There are many country restaurants on the roads leading out of town within a 30-minute radius. You have barbecue places, gastropub-style eateries, steakhouses (Argentine style), and, of course, many Mexican options. A favorite spot is Mama Mia Campestre, the countryside outpost of Mama Mia, one of the top pizza and Italian restaurants in town. But this location does not specialize in Italian but rather simple fare like grilled chicken, sausages, hearty salads, and steaks; OK, they have great pizza too. Everything is prepped over a wood-fire grill. There is also a craft brewery on site—try the IPA.
General Info Restaurants Restaurant Recommendations $0.00
  • Antonia Bistro SMA: For unbeatable views of downtown San Miguel, try out Antonia Bistro. The terrace-top restaurant is perfect to watch the sun set across el centro
  • Tacos Don Felix routinely tops must-visit lists in San Miguel, despite being a 20-minute walk from the city center. And sure, you can order the tacos here, even opting for the seven-ways platter. But you should consider the enchiladas: some served in local fashion, like the potato-stuffed enchiladas al portal, and some a bit less commonly prepared, like the enchiladas a la diabla (spicy!).
  • Mercado Ignacio Ramirez: Eat with the locals at Mercado Ignacio Ramirez, which is joined to San Miguel's artisan market. Order up a quick torta and wash it down with an agua de betabel — sweetened beet juice, a San Miguel staple — or spend hours wandering up and down the stalls. You can even pick up groceries here, if you'd like, or small snacks like candies and bags of peanuts to take on your walk.
  • El Pato Barbacoa y Mixiotes: Under a tarp next to the city's bus terminal, these guys fry up the best barbacoa and mixiotes in town. Don't write off the place too quickly — the barbacoa is tender enough to melt in your mouth, the mixiotes are juicy, and a flan is a must-have dessert. There are a few other street stands around, so look carefully: El Pato has papel picado flags hanging out front.
  • Rincon de Don Tomás: Take a seat at one of their outdoor tables, order a beer, and enjoy the perfect view of the Parroquia. The historical bar might not have a big menu (only serving breakfast items and snacks) but it’s got a great atmosphere and ice cold beer!
  • El Buen Lugar, Hidalgo 90. In a nice environment you get a comida corrida for M$90 (Dec 2021).
  • 202, Insurgentes 202. You get for example 4 tasty tacos with salad on top for M$30 (Dec 2021). Also offered are 4 enchiladas and gorditas. It's open 17:30-21:00.
  • Polleria Y Rosticeria D' Daniel, Insurgentes 144. You get a half grilled chicken with chiles and tortillas for M$55 (Dec 2021).
  • Comida China, Mesones 21. You can choose one kind of meat for your Chinese dish and get it for M$68 (Dec 2021). Open daily 10:30-20:00.
  • Tianguis de los Martes. About 3 km out of the center. With an enormous variety of street food, from gorditas and tacos to fresh fruit juices. Open Tuesdays 08:00-16:00. Bus line 8 or 9 goes there from the Plaza Civica on Mesones.
  • Cafe La Ventana, Diez de Sollano 11, ☏ +52 415 154 7728, josefinavalentini@yahoo.com. M-Sa 08:00-21:00, Su 09:00-15:00. Has good breakfasts and great coffee. Practices Fair Trade
  • Café Yenatu Panza, Calzada de la Aurora 48 (follow Hidalgo out of the Jardín until it turns into Aurora), ☏ +52 415 152 8900. Daily 08:30-12:00. This is undoubtedly the most innovative and creative breakfast menus in town featuring design-your-own omelets & breakfast burritos, exquisite French toast, and home made fruit salsa. The vibe is very comfy and clients can choose from indoor or outdoor-garden seating
  • Cafetería San Agustín, San Francisco 21, ☏ +52 415 154 9102. Daily 08:00-23:00. A well-run restaurant with great food, Mexican and international. The restaurant/cafe in proud of their freshly made churros and a variety of hot and cold chocolate milks. Owned by Margarita Gralia.
  • El Correo, Correo 23 (a block away from the main square), ☏ +52 415 152 4951. A small Mexican food spot which offers simple yet interesting authentic Mexican food in a great location.
  • El Pegaso, Corregidora 6 (just off the Jardín), ☏ +52 415 154 7611, elpegasomx@gmail.com. Daily 08:30-22:00. This trendy cafe style restaurant offers a delightful blend of Mexican and international flavor. Its atmosphere is definitely one of the best in town.
General Info Calle Aldama Snap Photos at Calle Aldama $0.00 For the best shot of San Miguel de Allende (and its iconic parish church), wander down Calle Aldama. This is where you can get that million-dollar shot of the cobblestoned street and its colorful buildings, backdropped by the Parroquia. You might find other Instagrammers trying to snap photos here. Be aware that it’s not a pedestrianized street, so don’t be a jerk and hog traffic.
General Info Casa de los Soles Take Photos at the Casa de los Soles $0.00 Right outside the Mercado Artesanía is a unique guest house that’s getting Insta-famous for its huge collection of suns. The owners of Casa de los Soles are very friendly and anyone is welcome in for a look. Every inch of its walls is covered in images of the sun: from brightly painted pottery to metal frames. Free entry.
General Info Doce 18 Concept House Wander around Doce 18 Concept House $0.00 San Miguel de Allende’s latest attraction is the Dôce 18 Concept House, a modern reinvention of a historical property. The 18th-century building was a thriving family-run housewares factory in the 1940s; today it houses upscale fashion and design shops, its own boutique hotel, and a cafeteria with plenty of fancy fast-casual options. Free entry.
General Info Mask Museum Visit the Mask Museum $0.00 A quirky thing to do in San Miguel is visiting the Mask Museum. This museum displays Bill LeVasseur’s extraordinary collection of over 500 Mexican ceremonial masks. Accompanying the mask collection are texts, photos, and videos showing more than 40 different dance ceremonies. All masks in the museum have been danced in indigenous performances and therefore are considered to be authentic.

Visits are by appointment only – with all proceeds from the entrance fee going toward local charities – so make sure to call ahead of your visit. Entry: 100 MXN (US$2.50).
Tel: 415-154-4324
Cell: 044-415-149-1563
E-mail: info@casadelacuesta.com
General Info Cañada de la Virgen Explore the Cañada de la Virgen $0.00 ust a 45-minute drive away, Cañada de la Virgen is a fascinating archaeological site that has only been recently excavated. Public access was first allowed in 2011. However, unlike its famous counterparts such as Chichen-Itzá, access is strictly controlled due to it sitting on private property.

Occupied by the Otomi people between 540 and 1050 A.D., the site consists of a complex of four pyramids (specially aligned with the movement of the planets), a ceremonial causeway and an ancient man-made pond. I recommend booking a guided tour with an archaeologist.
General Info Dolores Hidalgo Dolores Hidalgo $0.00 Located in Guanajuato state, Dolores Hidalgo is known as the birthplace of Mexican Independence. After soaking up the history, enjoy some of the town’s famous artisanal ice cream while browsing the shops filled with colorful Talavera ceramics.
Rome2Rio says it's a one-hour bus ride, $6CAD
General Info Escondido Place Quiet, relaxing, beautiful hot springs $0.00 The day ticket is for M$190 (Jan 2022).

For getting there you can do it the same way as going to La Gruta. From the bus stop it's a 12-min walk. You can bring your own food. Locks for the lockers and towels are only for sale, but you can bring your own. It's open daily until 17:00.

There are lockers for your clothes, changing places and showers, but make make sure you take your own towels.
Handy Coyote Canyon Adventures +52 415 154 4193, +52 1 415 153 5005, info@coyotecanyonadventures.com $0.00 Offers horseback riding, hiking, biking, rappelling, camping, four-wheeler (ATV), hot air ballooning, boating, Cañada de la Virgen pyramid tours, and multi-day cross country adventures. Their guides lead you safely through working cattle ranches, into canyons, through rivers, over plains, across gorges, and down sheer cliffs, all the while sharing with you their in-depth knowledge of the native flora and fauna.
Handy Bici-Burro Cycling Hospicio 1, +52 415 152 1526, beto@bici-burro.com $0.00 A bike shop that has operated in San Miguel since 1963. They offer bike rentals and biking or hiking tours with guides that hold an intimate knowledge of the area around San Miguel. You have the choice of seven bike tours and two hiking trips which take you amongst natural landmarks and some of the historical ruins of the area. These are of varying degrees of difficulty and range from 5 to 8 hours. The bicycle tours include a 2-speed aluminum mountain bike with helmet, gloves and transportation if needed.
Travel Resource SMdA Rutas Urbanas Urbana bus lines $0.00 San Miguel's bus station, or terminal, is on the west side of town. Here, you'll be able to book a bus to nearby destinations like León, Bernal, or Mexico City.

For the buses the locals take, you'll want to hop on one of the Urbana lines, which are mapped out here. Rates will vary depending on the route and time of day, but a trip shouldn't cost you more than a few pesos.
Travel
Type Name Service Provider Origin Destination Cost Notes Actions
Bus Ruta Aeropuerto Va y Ven Around the corner from AirBnB Mérida airport $7.02 90 pesos for two people
Flight Merida (MID) to Leon (BJX) Viva Aerobus Merida (MID) Leon (BJX) $468.14 CONF: W6MPJL
VB-9192 11:20 - 13:45
VB-9196 17:20 - 19:40
Checked bag incl
Airport fee and govt fees incl
Bought traveler insurance: Your trip is protected. Travel with peace of mind and if you require any assistance, contact the IGS call center at +52 (55) 8881 8814.
Other Shuttle to SMA BajiaGo Leon airport San Miguel de Allende $81.77 Based in SMA. Provides shuttles to/from SMA only.
Vehicle Taxi from Leon (BJX) to S.M.de Allende Leon Airport (BJX) San Miguel de Allende $0.00 The quickest way to get from Leon/Guanajuato Airport (BJX) to San Miguel de Allende is to taxi which costs $1000 - $1300 ($80-$101CAD) and takes 1h 29m.
Vehicle Taxi from Merida AirBnB to MID Airport Taxis on Booking Merida AirBnB Merida (MID) $0.00 CANCELED 2023/12/02. Was going to be $44.01
8:30AM pick-up. We will meet driver on the street outside the property.
Cancel for free up to 24 hours before you go
Provided by: E-Life Limo
Accommodation
Type Name Service Provider Confirmation Location Cost Notes Actions
Bed and Breakfast Departamento maria loreto AirBnB $415.21 Paid $207.61 2023/01/27. Balance due Dec 15.
Free cancelation before Dec 23.
Host: Maria. Please reach out to the Host for how to check-in. See Host guidebook for suggestions. Maria says it's ok that we'll arrive so late (due to the flight change)
Luggage drop
Laundromat nearby. Back yard with furniture. Luggage drop. Awesome rooftop terrace. Great location. Close to centro. Check-in: 15:00, out: 12:00


Trip Log

Notes Actions
Today we moved from Mérida to San Miguel de Allende.

Our best option for making the move was to fly to Leon and then make our way from there. If we’d taken the bus it would have taken over 30 hours. Ummmm. Nope. Thanks.

Our flight with Viva Aerobus was moved from 11:00am to 5:20pm. We were going to take a taxi the rest of the way but yesterday I discovered Bahio Go - a company that runs shuttles to and from San Miguel de Allende. They are great. Our driver was waiting for us when we arrived and whisked us, plus several more folks, off to San Miguel. It is a large expat community so apparently there is enough traffic coming and going to warrant a shuttle service which is a 90-minute drive from the Leon airport.

Note that we’re wearing sweaters in the last photo. It’s much (much) cooler in San Miguel de Allende than it was on the Yucatán


Photos